If you find yourself in a cobblestone street in Belgrade, where the neighbourly intimate clinking of glasses chimes along with the melancholic hum of the violin, and all you can smell is simmering stew and ćevapčiči, you should know – you are already experiencing kafana culture.
What is a kafana?
Many locals will tell you that a kafana is like a “second home” (druga kuća) to them. That is to say, a kafana is much more than just a place to eat and drink – it is a proper cultural institution in Serbia. We wouldn’t do it justice if we called it a café, a tavern, a restaurant, or a club, for it is all four of them simultaneously.
Kafanas have existed for centuries in Serbia, serving as a socialising haven for intellectuals, artists, writers, and anyone looking for a good time. Traditionally and while Serbia was under the Ottoman rule, kafanas were places where men would meet to discuss politics and business over strong Turkish coffee and rakija.
Today, kafana is a place where people from all walks of life gather to drink rakija (fruit brandy), enjoy domestic cuisine, and listen to live music. Unlike modern cafes or restaurants, a kafana has a specific atmosphere filled with merak (a feeling of deep enjoyment) and sevdah (melancholic joy often expressed through music). Let’s open the door to this magic place and see what makes it so special!
A short history of kafanas in Serbia
The history of kafana is hidden in its name – as kafa is Serbian for coffee, you can easily imagine that these were exact places where coffee was first introduced to locals in Serbia. People would gather in these cosy taverns to have a chat and enjoy a brief break from work.
The oldest recorded kafana in Belgrade was established in 1522, while the oldest one that is still running and welcoming guests every day is kafana called “?” (Znak Pitanja/Question Mark). Over time, kafanas evolved from simple coffeehouses into full-fledged restaurants with live music, delicious homemade food, and a distinct charm that continues to attract locals and foreigners alike.
What to expect in a Serbian kafana?
Even before you set foot in a kafana, you are bound to feel the atmosphere spilling beyond its doorstep onto the street. The decor inside often includes checked tablecloths and everything wooden, while walls are most commonly adorned with historic photographs, memorabilia from different times or traditional Serbian motifs.
Whether it’s a small, homey kafana or a large venue, everyone comes here with either or all of the three goals: to savour long, slow meals, to talk for hours, or sing along to their favourite folk songs.
What to order in Serbian kafana?
Let us ease your mind over this – in a kafana, you simply cannot go wrong. Whatever you choose, be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, the food in kafanas is delicious, delectable, and deeply rooted in Serbian tradition.
- Kafana for breakfast
…is a great idea! What better way to start your day, than with a cup of Turkish coffee, a heavenly combo of creamy kajmak and aged prosciutto, served with freshly baked bread? Fried eggs with Serbian sausage could be a brave and a hearty start, while local pogačice sa čvarcima, i.e. traditional crispy pork crackling pastries are a must-try.
Just say čvarci, lepinja, and kajmak in Serbian, and you can’t go wrong.
- Kafana for lunch
Having lunch at a kafana is how Serbs celebrate special occasions with their families and friends, but also close business deals in casual and warm atmosphere of this sacred place. Advice is to always start with a meze platter (appetizers). Main dishes mostly include grilled meats like ćevapi and pljeskavica, pečenje (roast pork), and slow-cooked specialties such as sarma (stuffed cabbage rolls) or prebranac (baked beans).
- Kafana for dinner
Nighttime is the time for going out to a kafana. One can’t go wrong with ćevapi sa lukom i kajmakom – iconic ćevapi with chopped onions and creamy spread. Add the absolute favourite among spreads – urnebes salata, a fiery cheese-based spread with paprika, and enjoy the very gist of Serbian cuisine.
As for drinks, local rakija is the star of the show. This strong fruit brandy is often homemade and comes in various flavours, from plum to apricot, walnuts, raspberry, and many more.
Music and entertainment – Why are kafanas so fun?
Apart from domestic food, music is what makes kafana such a uniquely warm and welcoming place for everyone. Accordion, tamburica and fiddle are an essential part of the kafana experience. Many kafanas today feature live bands playing traditional starogradska (oldtown) music, a mix of folk, gypsy, and urban melodies. As the sky grows darker, the atmosphere heats up and the guests get up to dance, clap, and even order songs from the musicians, adding to the lively and interactive atmosphere. Singing along is not just encouraged—it’s expected!
Famous kafanas in Serbia
If you’re in the mood for a good old pub crawl, try a tour through Belgrade’s most famous bohemian street Skadarlija, where some of the most iconic kafanas entertain their guests every day of the week. Here are a few kafanas that take pride in their immaculate service and oldtown charm:
- ? (Znak Pitanja) in Belgrade – the oldest kafana in the city, founded in 1823.
- Tri Šešira in Skadarlija – a historic kafana with excellent food and live music.
- Dva Jelena – another Skadarlija classic, famous for its traditional Serbian cuisine.
- Lanterna in Novi Sad – a great spot for a mix of music and authentic dishes.
- Malča in Niš – known for its lively atmosphere and amazing grilled meats.
How to behave like a local in kafana?
Everyone is more than welcome in a kafana. Above all, it is a social hub ever filled with chatter enriched with some good food on the table. Still, if you wish to blend in with the locals and try out some new vocabulary, here are a few tips and tricks to follow:
- Take your time. Meals in kafanas are slow, hearty, and meant to be enjoyed.
- It’s a tradition to begin your meal with a shot of rakija, so don’t be shy!
- Tipping the musicians is customary. If you request a song, be prepared to leave a small tip.
- Don’t rush to pay the bill. In kafanas, you usually ask for the check only when you are ready to leave.
The difference between modern and traditional kafanas
While traditional kafanas stick to the old ways – wooden furniture, folk music, and homemade food, modern kafanas have introduced contemporary elements and resemble clubs in a certain way. Some now feature even DJs, pop music, and a more nightclub-like atmosphere. However, if we go back a few centuries ago, we will see that the setting of a kafana was also quite different. Nevertheless, what remains unchanged is its essence: traditional food, lots of drinks, and great company.
These once meeting places for revolutionaries, poets, and artists, where ideas were exchanged, and history was made, continue to this day to celebrate life, friendship, and tradition. Their history and heritage are what makes kafanas so much more than just places to grab a bite. Now that you are acquainted with the richness of a kafana experience, a night or two in it wouldn’t go amiss!
Have a great time in kafana and živeli! Cheers!
